TIPS ON HAND-KNOTTED PEARL NECKLACES, PART 1

I got into a discussion online tonight with a beader friend about how to hand-knot pearls.  She was just learning how and I was offering some tips.  I decided to share them here.

As far as I'm concerned, the pearl-stringer's bible is Pearl and Bead Stringing with Henrietta, by Henrietta Virchick.  It's a small paperback book with most everything you need to know if you want to string pearls like a professional.  I Googled the book and found that it's available for $10.95 on several sites.  I do NOT have any connection to either Henrietta Virchick or her publisher.



This is my well-worn copy of Henrietta Virchick's book. 

    

I've seen other books as well as online tutorials for stringing pearls.  In my opinion, none of them will give you the same professional results as Henrietta's instructions will give you.  Henrietta says silk thread is best and that French wire should always be used to protect the thread next to the clasps.  I do as she says!


You can see the French wire attaching the pearl to the clasp.  This French wire is enveloping and protecting the silk thread from wear and tear.  By the way, filligree clasps are traditional on pearl necklaces.

Some of you may wonder why we use silk thread when stringing pearls and why we knot that thread.

First, let's talk about pearl basics, starting with the nacre.  The nacre is what gives a pearl it's sheen and color.  It is the material that the mollusk, usually an oyster, uses to cover an irritant that has gotten into it's shell.  Over time the irritant is covered with many layers of nacre.  Basically, there are natural and cultured pearls.  They are both REAL pearls and it is often difficult, even for an expert, to tell them apart without an X-ray.

A natural pearl is begun when an irritant invades the mollusk's shell naturally—without human intervention.  It is likely that the pearl is almost entirely made up of nacre, meaning that the nacre will be very thick.  Natural pearls are rare and getting enough round pearls of the same size is extremely rare, which makes it prohibitively expensive for most of us to own a natural pearl necklace. 

A cultured pearl begins when some sort of a sphere-shaped bead is deliberately inserted into the mollusk's shell by a human.  After that, the process is the same as for a natural pearl.  Ideally, the nacre will be thick around the bead, but sometimes cultured pearls are started with large beads and are harvested when only a thin layer of nacre has been formed.

This website has information about cultured and natural pearls:
http://www.pearlsintime.com/pearl-jewelry-education/cultured-vs-natural-pearls.html

Wire or threads that are more abrasive than silk can damage the nacre of the pearls, especially at the drilled openings.  Pearls with a thinner nacre are especially susceptible.  Silk thread is very strong and has a beautiful "drape."  There are two reasons for knotting the silk thread between the pearls.  First, the knots keep the pearls from rubbing together, which would be damaging to the nacre.  Second, if you break your strand of knotted pearls, only one pearl gets loose from the strand, so you only risk losing that one pearl.  On the other hand, if you have a strand of unknotted pearls, a broken strand means pearls are rolling all over the floor.

 

This Swarovski Crystal Pearl necklace has nice, tight knots, which are up close to the pearls.  However, I just noticed that the necklace needs to be restrung because some of the knots have been discolored by makeup.

            
It's very important to pre-stretch the silk thread or it will stretch as you wear the necklace, which will cause it to grow gaps between the knots and the pearls. Also, never hang your pearl necklace when you're not wearing it or the silk will stretch some, even if you already pre-stretched it.  Always lay your necklace flat when it's not being worn.
    

This silk thread here is so badly stretched that the knots actually became elongated and some of them slid into the holes of the pearls!  When I made this necklace I didn't know enough to stretch the silk.  To make matters worse, I didn't make the knots close enough to the pearls and then I hung the necklace for several weeks on the hanger of the dress that I planned to wear it with.    

    
Never store pearls in plastic bags or containers. Pearls need to breathe; they will dry out in plastic. I've heard of people who store their pearls in fabric bags in the bathroom so that the pearls get moisture from the steam of the shower. NEVER wear your pearls in the shower or when swimming. If you should accidentally get the thread wet, let the necklace dry completely on a flat surface. Avoid handling it while it dries. . .and while we're in the bathroom, be sure to apply your makeup, perfume, and hairspray BEFORE you put on your pearls.  As you can see in the second photo above, if you have makeup or sunless tanner on your neck, it's going to discolor your silk thread and could damage your pearls.
    
Stretching the silk is the one thing that is not addressed in Henrietta's book. I don't know why. I learned all about knotting pearls from that book, so I had no idea that silk needed to be stretched—until my necklaces started getting gaps between the pearls and the knots after I wore them a couple of times.

I restrung the necklaces and it happened again, so I went online to see if I could figure out what the problem was.  I was quickly able to learn that I needed to stretch the thread, but after hours of research I couldn't find any good instructions on how to do that.  I found that some people stretch their silk thread by hand, sort of yanking on one small section at a time until the entire length is stretched.  I was not pleased with my results when I tried this.  I think it's hard to get consistent results throughout the entire length of thread.  I just don't think you can be sure that the thread is fully stretched using this method.

After a lot of thinking I decided to try hanging the thread from a plant hook in the ceiling, with a weight attached to the thread at the bottom, and leave it overnight.  This allows for knotting the thread with the two-strand method—this is actually a single strand that is doubled.  This works great and it's how I stretch all my silk thread now:

1. Measure and cut the silk thread.
2. Run the silk thread through Thread Heaven Thread Magic*.
3. Thread the silk onto a beading needle made for pearls.  It will have a collapsible eye.
 



I cut a very short strand of silk for demo purposes and ran it through the Thread Heaven.  You can see that Thread Heaven is a silicone substance that comes in a little, square container.  Then I added a collapsible eye needle and tied the ends with an overhand knot.
*UPDATE May 22, 2022:  I have just learned from a friend that Thread Heaven is no longer being made.  After some online research I learned that Thread Magic is the perfect replacement, and is actually better!


4. Tie off the ends of both threads with a single overhand knot.
5. Separate the doubled thread with your hands so that it is sort of a circle and hang the thread from the top of the circle, with the knot near the hanger.  Don't pierce the knot.    




Here I've looped the thread on a nail to hang it.  At the bottom I hung the pearls that I'll be restringing onto the thread and let it hang overnight to stretch the thread.  Notice that the thread has started to twist. 
UPDATE May 22, 2022:   I used to think that it wasn't possible to avoid getting twisted thread, until I accidentally did it!
See TIPS ON HAND-KNOTTED PEARL NECKLACES, PART 4 to prevent the twisting.



6. Now drape the pearls you'll be stringing later—don't remove them from their original strand yet—over the bottom of the oval and let them hang on the silk thread as a weight.  Be sure to separate the two strands of thread (created by doubling the thread) when you hang the weight, and find a way to keep that separation while the thread stretches.
7. Leave the thread to stretch overnight.

  

By the way, if you're stretching a single strand of thread, or you're using silk cord on a card, which comes with a needle embedded into it, see Part 2 and Part 3.
   
If I'm in a hurry and don't want to wait until the next day to start work on the necklace, I add another strand or two of pearls if I have them, or even a finished necklace or bracelet to make more weight on the thread.  Then I let it stretch for a couple of hours.  The extra weight should make up for the shorter time.

If you let the thread twist when you hang it, not only will you battle tangling while stringing and knotting your pearls, you will have to be careful not to get the "weight" tangled up in the twisted thread as you remove it.  You'll have to carefully untwist the lower part of the thread first.

See TIPS ON HAND-KNOTTED PEARL NECKLACES, PART 4 to learn how to prevent the silk thread from twisting.  If it isn't twisted it is so much easier to string and knot the pearls.

Because it makes a static charge that causes the threads to repel each other, the Thread Heaven Magic should help to keep out tangles and unwanted knots.

I don't use beeswax because I think that it stiffens the silk, makes it bulkier, and discolors it—that's strictly my opinion.  I believe that can be a problem for use with pearls because they have very small holes.  Anyway, I think it ruins the sheen and the feel of the silk.  Others may disagree with me, believing that the wax keeps the silk thread from getting dirty and that a buildup of wax outside the hole of the pearl can protect it.

  

When the stretching is finished and you've removed the "weight," gently untwist the rest of the thread, if necessary.  Rearrange the thread so that the needle is on one end and the knot is on the opposite end and run the thread through Thread Heaven Magic again before you start adding pearls.  If you didn't prevent the twisting while the thread was stretching, you will occasionally need to untwist the thread as you work.  Use the Thread Heaven Magic whenever then thread becomes difficult to manage.

  

I'm not going to get into the steps for actually knotting the silk or adding the clasps in this post.  Henrietta's book has all that information with very nice graphics to show you exactly how to make the knots.  Part 3 has some good tips on the actual knotting process.

When knotting with a single strand of silk thread I prefer to use a knotting tool rather than tweezers.  Even with the knotting tool, it can be very tricky to get those knots close enough to the pearls—and if the knot tightens up before you get it in place, you have two choices:  

1.  Try to undo the knot (frequently impossible).

2.  Cut off the pearls and start over again with new thread.  
 

I find it faster and easier to use two strands of silk thread. When knotting with two strands of silk, make an overhand knot in the same direction every time, as close to the pearl as possible.  I like to use a needle tool (like an awl) to pull the loose knots close to the pearl.  Then I gently tug the two strands away from each other, with one strand in each hand, to tighten the knot and pull it up tight against the pearl.

Because silk thread will still stretch a bit even if you pre-stretch it, I like to tie my knots up snugly next to the pearls. It may look a little too tight at first, but it will quickly loosen just enough to hang well.  If the necklace doesn't hang smoothly at first, just give it a gentle tug or two. That should make it drape nicely.  If it's still too tight, just wear the necklace around for a couple of hours and it should relax enough to drape beautifully.
   

I should mention that these tips will work if you knot silk thread with many other beads, not just pearls.  However, as a general rule, silk thread should not be used use with crystals or other beads with sharp edges around the holes that could cut the thread.  

These are fossil beads which have been dyed to look like turquoise.  The holes were very large, so I had to use thicker silk thread.  You can see how large the knots are.    

    
I'm going to mention one more thing.  If you knot a pearl bracelet with silk thread, be very careful to make it exactly the right length for your wrist.  If the bracelet is large enough to slide down around the lower part of your hand, the silk thread is probably going to stretch out quickly due to the motion of your hand.  Another problem is washing your hands while wearing the bracelet.  If you get the silk wet, you must remove it immediately and lay it flat to dry.  Otherwise, the thread will stretch and the bracelet will grow.  Also, when wet, the thread will attract dirt if you continue to wear it.  If you take the bracelet off to wash your hands, DON'T put it on the side of the sink.  It will get wet there as well.  If you take off the bracelet you also run the risk of forgetting to put it back on and losing it, so put it in your pocket, purse, or other safe place.  You may forget to put it back on right away, but you won't lose it.    
   
   
For almost everything you ever wanted to know about pearls, as well as a forum of really knowledgeable and helpful people, check out this website and join their forum:
http://pearl-guide.com/
        
     
"Tips on Hand-Knotted Pearl Necklaces, Part 2:"  Part 2 addresses silk thread in detail, including how it is sold, and choosing sizes. 
  
"Tips on Hand-Knotted Pearl Necklaces, Part 3:"  In Part 3 I show you how to make knots with both single and double strands of thread, along with tools that are used for knotting. 

"Tips on Hand-Knotted Pearl Necklaces, Part 4:"  In Part 4 I share some tips for keeping the thread from twisting, as well as a few other tips that make stringing and knotting easier.
  
  

© Copyright 2011 Linda's Art Barn. All rights reserved.

Woven Necklaces & Bracelets with Multiple Strands--How to Finish

This morning I was searching for some information and ran across a question by someone who wanted to know how to end a Kumihimo bracelet that had multiple threads.  The person who posted the question mentioned using crimp beads.  Unless there's something I'm missing, it's a very bad idea to use crimp beads on fiber because they will eventually cut into it and break it.  The same thing happens with stretch cord—and I know from experience that when the crimp bead causes the stretch cord to break it will cause an EXPLOSION of beads!

I have used crimp beads on 2 strands of Fireline in a couple of necklaces, but I worry that they will eventually begin to wear.  I don't think that using a crimp on a single strand of Fireline would work at all.  Bracelets are under a lot more stress than necklaces, so I would definitely not use crimps on a bracelet woven with Fireline.  From what I can see, most experienced beaders would tell us not to use crimps on Fireline.  As a general rule, crimp beads are strictly for flexible beading wire.

There are numerous methods for attaching clasps to necklaces and bracelets.   Here is one method which will work for multiple strands of Fireline.

You will need:

• 2 eye pins
• 2 bead cones
• 2 beads, size 2, 3 or 4 mm
• Hypo Cement
• Clasp of your choice 

It's probably best if you make your own eye pins. That way you can choose the correct length and be sure that the eyes will be large enough to hold all the threads—just don't make them too big or they won't fit far enough into the cone to be hidden. Be sure that the eyes are closed tightly so that thread cannot slip off of them. You might want to hammer the eyes lightly with a rubber or nylon mallet to give them strength before you begin.

You probably want to use 18 to 20-gauge wire for strength. If you use a finer gauge wire, you should make wrapped loops for strength and security, but I myself wouldn't go with anything finer than 22 gauge. 

Start with one end of your bracelet or necklace:

• Split your threads into 2 sections and tie a square knot, snugly against the beads.  For example, if you have 6 threads total, use 3 threads and in each hand to tie the knot.
• Using the same two sections, tie a square knot tightly onto the eye.
• Secure both knots with Hypo Cement.
• Trim the ends of the threads (make sure that they are totally secure first).
• Put the eye pin through the wide end of the bead cone, so that the eye, all the knots, and the trimmed ends are hidden inside the cone.  You should only see the beaded part of the bracelet/necklace protruding from the wide end of the bead cone.
• String one of the beads onto the wire outside the narrow end of the bead cone.
• Be sure that the eye and knots are tucked snugly inside the cone and turn a loop outside the narrow end of the bead cone next to the small bead.
• Repeat on the other end of the necklace or bracelet with the second piece of the clasp.

 Fireline is my thread of choice for bead weaving because it really helps you to control the tension.  When you snug up the beads the thread seems to grip—and the knots tend to stay put. Of course, when you finish you should still make a couple of half-hitch knots as you weave the ends through the beads for added security.
   

I don't care for Nymo for weaving because I can't get the tension I want, but it's great for making fringe because it's more fluid than Fireline.  Fireline makes fringe that's way too stiff.
   

By the way, I mention Fireline and Nymo because they are the most common names used, but there are other brands of threads that have the same or similar characteristics. 
   

Some substitutes for Fireline are Wildfire, Spiderwire, Power Pro, and Dandyline.  I have only used Fireline, so I cannot recommend any of the others.
   

Some substitutes for Nymo are C-Lon, Super-Lon and One-G.  I have used C-Lon, but don't have enough experience with it to state a preference.

© Copyright 2011 Linda's Art Barn. All rights reserved.

Thank you, Blogspot Staff

Having worked for a computer company as a software test specialist some years back, I know that making changes to software frequently causes unexpected bugs.  Apparently that is what happened to some of us Blogspot bloggers this week after Blogspot made some changes.
I contacted Blogspot last night to tell them that I was unable to access my Dashboard, or even to make comments on other Blogspot blogs.  I am thrilled to find that my problem is already fixed and I'm back in business today.  That was so fast!

So, I want to thank everyone who has been working so hard to fix this problem.  You should know how much your hard work is appreciated.

Precious Metals Update & New Sterling Silver-Filled Wire

I read today that gold and silver prices have gone down a bit in the past couple of days after hitting all-time highs.  I'm not going to get excited, because it's probably only a temporary trend.  Also affected are the prices of platinum, palladium, and oil.  I don't pretend to understand the stock or commodities markets, so I have little understanding as to why this has happened or what the future holds.  I won't be surprised if we don't see a corresponding reduction in price when we purchase any of these commodity items, though.  If you speak investor language, then you might be interested in reading about it at:  http://www.tradingnrg.com/

Did you know that you can now purchase sterling silver-filled wire?  It's made in the same way as gold-filled wire--there is a thick coating of sterling silver bonded around a base of brass or copper.  It's a much thicker coating of silver than what is found on silver-plated wire, making the sterling silver-filled wire far more durable--and it can be soldered.  In addition, it shouldn't trigger allergies in people who don't already have a problem wearing sterling silver.

I heard about sterling silver-filled wire for the first time a few days ago at Lisa Niven Kelley's website, Beaducation, where she explains how it compares to sterling silver and silver plate.  http://www.beaducation.com/

If you go to Fire Mountain Gems you can see a drawing that shows how much thicker the silver is on sterling silver-filled wire than on silver-plated wire.  http://www.firemountaingems.com/sterling-silver-filled.asp

Another site, Bead Factory, has an article comparing sterling silver, fine silver, and sterling silver-filled wire.   http://www.thebeadfactory.com/catalog/pages.php?pageid=3

So at least we have an alternative to sterling silver that will hold up to being worn and won't cost us a fortune! 

FREE CINDY LIETZ TUTORIAL VIDEO--Available for a Few Days Only, Starts May 2

Let me start out by saying that I don't receive any benefit for telling you about this.

For the past 18 months I've been following Cindy Lietz's polymer clay blog, which is a goldmine of information.  Cindy is known as the "Polymer Clay Tutor."  Four times each month those of us who are paid members get to view a new polymer clay beading tutorial.  These are extremely high-quality videos--and as long as we continue our memberships, we have unlimited access to those tutorials--for an amazing price of less than $3.50 per month.  Oh, let me not forget the two color recipes that are included with each tutorial!  If you like to work with polymer clay, you're crazy not to become a member.

Recently, Cindy did a tutorial called the "Lietz Teardrop Blend Shift Technique." If you've ever struggled with the Skinner Blend, or just felt that the Skinner Blend is too time-consuming, you've got to see Cindy's video!  It's her own technique and it's brilliant!

Starting on May 2 Cindy is allowing free access to this tutorial. Read about it and access the tutorial here.  Hurry up and view the video because it may only be free for a few days.

ONE MORE THING...be sure to sign up for Cindy's free newsletter at http://www.beadsandbeading.com/ and you'll receive a free color recipe four times a month (these are different from the color recipes that come with the paid membership), along with free access to three polymer clay tutorials.

Don't miss these great free opportunities!

                                                                                                 

ADDED ON JUNE 9, 2011: 

Readers, please note that you can STILL get Cindy's free polymer clay newsletter, even though the "Lietz Teardrop Blend Shift Technique" video is no longer free.

Along with Cindy's free newsletter you get unlimited free access to three tutorials. You also get four free color recipes each month.

MY JEWELRY CLASS SCHEDULE

A few weeks ago I posted that I've been certified as a Bead Cornerä Design Academy Instructor at Michael's.  I'll be teaching classes at the Rutland,VT, Michael's Arts & Crafts store starting on May 10.  Here is my schedule:

• Tuesday, May 10, 6-8 PM:  Fundamentals of Wire Wrapping
• Tuesday, May 17, 6-8 PM:  Fundamentals of Bead Stringing
• Tuesday, May 24, 6-8 PM:  Fundamentals of Crimping Techniques

To see detailed descriptions of these classes, click here.

New Record on Gold Prices

OK, my jewelry-making friends...take a deep breath. 

Gold hit a new record today, so I thought I'd quickly post the latest gold, silver, and copper prices.  As of today, April 18, 2011 those prices are:

• Gold....... $1495.00 per ounce--record high
• Silver...... $43.31 per ounce
• Copper....$4.26 per pound--that's only $ .27 per ounce!

If you recall, I blogged about the prices of these metals back in August of this year. 

Yikes!  Silver has more than doubled in price since August, with an increase of almost $25 since then, and is approaching the record high price of $48 from January of 1980. 

Gold has increased by $299 since August 11, and today's price is an all-time high.

I didn't record the copper price last August, but if you're using copper to make jewelry, it's still a bargain compared to gold and silver.

Of course, if you're a plumber or electrician, both of whom use large amounts of copper, this price is painful because it, too, has increased.

Good thing we don't need to use oil in jewelry-making--but I'm not going to get into that!